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4/15/13 - It's been a month since the last post and I've been doing quite a bit of work. One thing for sure...every corner you turn on this thing comes with a new twist! Part of this is due to the changes I've decided to make. Start one thing....consider another...stop, research, buy parts, finish the second and then go back where you left off. Then do it all over again for the next step. It's crazy and I can't wait until it all begins to fall together. Yes, it's still pretty early and this is the point where hours and hours of reading, research and parts ordering slows things down.

I've got the entire oil system, fuel system, race logic system and standalone engine harness. I've also got the Cadillac CTS-V alternator parts and AC compressor mount and pulley. The engine harness is completely redone (had to strip the new one and reroute everything in order to get the wires headed in the right direction.) It turned out pretty close to exactly what I needed. The computer harness feeds directly from the right side of the engine to the computer mounting area. The left side of the harness (Gas pedal, Code reader connector and the ignition wiring feed down the left side directly into the tunnel.

I dropped the engine in on Saturday without issue. The AC lines will require slight lengthening before connecting to the compressor. I went through the cooling/heater system and purchased the constant flow valve from "My Race Shop" and plan to plumb all that next. I mounted the Canton tank on the left frame member just above and to the right of the engine. I received the TIG welded aluminum tanks (Quick Racing Products) and plumbing as well. So, long story longer.....I've got what I need to actually get some work done. Check the pages for updates.

3/11/13 - CANTON TANK AND HEATER BYPASS VALVE INSTALL:

I decided to go with the Canton Expansion tank from Summit racing and heater bypass valve setup from "Crash" at "My Race Shop". The picture here shows the forward overflow tank (Not the Canton Expansion tank near the engine)These were recommendations and seem to be the hot tip for keeping the expansion tank at the proper level near the engine and also having proper operation of the heating system. Some guys use an overflow tank as well. I decided to purchase a second Canton tank to be an overflow reservoir up front. Its a simple overflow tank with site gauge and a petcock drain. The photos in the cooling section show how I mounted it after verifying it would fit with the wiper motor mounted. I'm still waiting for components for the engine oil and fuel system so I'm not quite at the point I want to drop the engine in the chassis. Also, I've got the LS7 standalone wiring/ECU setup on the way and will be doing some prewiring prior to engine installation. Once the window wiper motor is ready to be installed, I'll probably modify the aluminum wiper mount bracket to access the cap a little easier. When I do, I'll beef up the wiper mount by picking up adjacent chassis or firewall mount points with custom angles/sheet metal.

The last few weeks have been spent on some small things here and there and getting caught up on the parts I need for the motor. I've purchased a Cadillac CTS-V Alt mount, Aluminum Tanks, Peterson Oil system tank, LS7 harness/ECU, fuel system plumbing etc in preparation for engine installation.

2/19/13 - I played around with the alternator brackets this evening and spent quite a bit of time on Monday (Holiday) working on the intake reversal. In the end, I decided to install the new GM Performance plug wires and Kooks exhaust. I just liked the way it looks and could end up having to take some stuff off again. Still lots left to do to get the engine configured. I'm waiting for the GMPP standalone wiring harness to arrive. I'll likely have to strip the harness and modify the injector wires by tapping into them for the Race Logic traction control system. I've also got work to do on the oil system configuration to include a Peterson's tank, PCV lines and Oil cooler setup. Click here or the photo to see new progress on the motor.

2/27/2013 - I recieved some of the Camlocs I needed. At least enough to finish the drivers side access cover and doubler. I flush riveted a doubler and installed 3/32 rivets around the perimeter and Camloc receptacles (14) to accept the turn-lock fasteners. These are 1/4 turn and can be un-done with your thumb yet they hold the panel firmly in place. All this will be covered with DynaMat and the turn-lock fasteners painted a matt epoxy paint. The entire sequence is displayed in photos on the "Foot Panels" page.

This ended up being a bit of work and I had the right tools to do it. A simple screw on cover would work as well. The main thing is that I recommend you have an access panel here to check things and provide working access down the road.

5/23/13 - Did some additional work on the fuel system and floor panels in anticipation of installing the fuel tanks. I re-configured the fuel delivery system several times and ended up re-making hard aluminum lines to route them near the canton expansion tank and to get the entire assembly to fit on the aft left sheet metal shelf. I've added many photos in the "Fuel" page to show the newer installation. Also, I took a series of pictures aligning and drilling the floor mount panels for the center tunnel, engine and fuel tanks. They offer a pretty good reference for positioning and drilling the holes. See the added ""Floor and Undercarriage" page to see the new photos.

6/7/2013 - I worked a solid 10-12 hours Saturday and Sunday on the tanks, fuel system and some odds and ends. I decided to fabricate tank hold down brackets to help keep the tanks from moving around. There's many different ways to keep the tanks in place but I decided a few stops mounted to the frames and a hold down bracket to clamp them in place would be better than padding stuffed between the frame and sheet metal panels. I also added a heat shield (Hand fabricated ) to keep the fuel system cool. The system lines and filters are sitting pretty close and above the headers. The shield helps absorb the heat and will keep any leaks from dropping directly on the headers.. I added appx 20 photos to the fuel section.

7/22/2013 - Been working on the engine fuse box mount installation. I fabricated a metal mount from several channels and sheet aluminum so that it could be easily assembled in place and removed for maintenance. The cats are directly beneath the unit so I purchased 1/4" ceramic/stainless heat shield wrap and stainless zip ties to cover the cats and keep the heat down in this area.. Additionally, I will be installing a heat shield directly beneath the mount plate. The bottom channel is riveted to the frame and has nut plates at attachment points for the secondary channel which sits on top but is offset to one side for proper positioning of the fuse box. It can also be adjusted. The plate mounts to the top of the secondary channel with screws. The bottom of the fuse box is screwed to the plate with sheet metal - self tapping screws removed from the donor Corvette. The harness routes nicely along the underside of the frame tube and intersects the harness for the ECU running towards the right side of the engine between the tank and engine. The harness for the ECU, and the fuse block combine with rear light wiring and power cables for the fuse box. All of these wires flow down the right side of the engine, across the top of the thermostat housing and down into the tunnel area where the rear #2 ISIS Powercell mounts.

8/12/13 - Working on the traction control and chassis wiring. I've spent weeks routing, re-routing, chafe proofing and insulating wiring. I've decided to use the GM Delphi Metri-Pak plugs, terminals and weather seals where IO can. I ordered the correct tools and terminals from Ballenger Motorsports (http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ )in Mechanicsville, VA. Un pinning the leftover C5 plugs was easy. With the correct crimp tool, installing the terminals and weather seals is easy and provides superior connections that are weatherproof. I used all Metri-pak connectors for the ABS wheel speed sensors. For the Traction Control I used aircraft grade shielded double conductor wire. I grounded the shielding and T.C. grounds to the chassis. I did add a page with photos of the terminal removal and installation using the Delphi pin extractor and terminal crimping tool.

JANUARY 2014 - Been busy doing lots since August. After a year I received the Mendeola. It's a beautiful piece of work and mated up perfectly. I had some slight trimming to remove material between the throwout bearing shaft housing and clutch face. Not a big deal and there's plenty of meat around the shaft to not be concerned.

I've also done quite a bit of work on the electric, shifter, aluminum panels and also refinished the brake calipers in Viper Yellow Poly paint. Clutch is in and brakes and clutch are both bled and working. I tested the electrical, ISIS and Racelogic system. Also cranked up the bluetooth OBDII diagnostic tester and it worked without a glitch. All connected to a laptop so I can finally start viewing everything on the screen. No surprises except that on the initial ignition power check, I cranked the engine momentarily. Apparently there was some fuel left in it somewhere. After all the work and sitting for a year, it started and ran for about 4-5 seconds and shut down. Long story short....everything seems to be on track and working like it should. I've added a bunch of photos (about 90) so make sure to check the pages for photo updates.

February 1 2014 - I rearranged some of the engine compartment to make room for the intake outlet. The dual cold air intake system doesn't work well with the Kooks exhaust so I'm ditching it for a single 4" intake. I've added a page detailing the fabrication of the intake (Here) to include the specific measurements needed for proper MAF location. I've got to find a location for the dry sump tank catch can. The relocation of the engine compartment fuse box worked well but makes it pretty tight for the catch can which used to be there.

April 10, 2014 - Lots going on. I ended up sending the ISIS system back for re-programming to accomodate the "In Net" box, giving the car a WiFi interface for future PC based programs, flat screen and Iphone/Android capabilities. The car electric system will be accesible via the In Net website hardwired into a box in the car. The system can be reprogrammed and updated via internet downloads from ISIS Power web site. With the system, A/C and all electrics are accesible, programmable and capable of being turned on from any WiFi enabled device via password and user name. The PC can run multiple Windows based programs to include engine tuning, GPS, Mapping, Gaming, Music , email and anything else typically used on a home PC. The unit is made by "Stealth" systems. Memory and hard drive are solid state and the system power supply is 12V. The interface will be a 7-10" LED touchscreen with daytime screen readability.

11 April, 2014 - After lots of research and verification of GTM owner tire and wheel data, I finally managed to find wheels with the look and custom options I wanted. I decided to Go with BC Forged HB04 Concave dish wheels from Need4Speed Motor Sports in Glendale CA. I worked with a fella named Tiko for several moths to nail down backspacing, size and finish. Unlike many GTM's I did not go with the traditional Corvette Backspacing or wheels. I wanted the rear backspacing to provide clearance of the Big Corvette brakes, with a medium concave appearance and exactly flush with the side of the car....if not very slightly beyond so that I can build up a slight flare of the rear fenders similar but less than what you see on the C6 Z06 Corvette rear fenders. Visit the wheel page by clicking on the blue links above. I've added a link to Need4Speed on the links page. Ask for Tiko and tell him know John sent you. Hhe was a great help and worked late on many occasions to get my order correct, communicating the entire time. He also knows the business and details of options for the high end car market. Price was excellent at about 4K for the time and ultimately the finished product.

November 10, 2014

After quite a long break and move I'm back in action in the garage. I've had the chance to get the garage built which is a huge improvement over the place we were in. I now have the room I need (plus some), good lighting and some other things that make life nice.

Prior to the move and in antiipation of having to move the project, I got the car running but ran into an oilissue caused by an incorrect blockoff plate I installed over the oil cooler supply and return. This plate was sold as a blockoff plate for that purpose however it did not have the proper oil path built into it. As a consequence, it prevented full oil flow from getting to things. I had 25 PSI at cold idle. A long story short...ithung with me for the move until I got things in place to begin the troubleshooting process. I went through the system, all the new components, the gauges etc and found nothing. After researching flow a little more specific to the oil path, I discovered the blockoff plate issue. This caused no damage because oil still flowed in limited quantity past the oil restrictor (which was there and undamaged as verified using a borescope). I was halfway through pulling the engine and made the discovery prior to unbolting the transaxle and lifting the engine out. That last ditch effort paid off. It cost me $10 to get the new plate. Everything is good to go now.

I've added a page with video (Good QualityHD) of the engine runand a walkaround of the project in it's current state. I'll start posting pictures soon now that I've managed to get the website back up and accesible.

More Later

NOVEMBER 14, 2014 (NEW) - Garage Alignment video on suspension page.

Today was the first test drive in the go-kart. After doing a garage alignment using scales, rulers, tape and a protractor, I set out on the road to test things out. Everything worked as planned and of course I had gone through everything with a fine tooth comb so I didn't expect any issues with the engine or electrical. The main thing was to see how the transaxle shifted and how the engine, clutch and transaxle acted under power. It was pretty sporty. Nice and solid and tracked perfectly at 30-40 MPH. After the run, I let her cool down and then pulled the gauge group to begin the body work.

JANUARY 21, 2015 TEST DRIVE WITH BODY ON BELOW

DOORS:

The time has come to play with the doors. This is the nightmare on the GTM. Commonly known as a royal freaking PITA. Not so much because I can't deal with it but more the fact that FFR has not improved anything in the Gen II after years of issues in the same area on the Gen 1 GTM. IMO, A bit to be lacking when asking the increased cost of a kit now at $25K.

Basically, I just threw the book back into the bookshelf, grabbed the parts and started holding things in place, eyeballing the more obvious things that needed to be done. Then, step by step I walked through a completely different way to get it done. Yes, FFR has some cool kits and yes, mass producing door frames and fiberglass bodies that fit exactly in every case could potentially cost a huge investment in machinery. On the other hand, some of it could have been improved. One thing for sure, the book needs a facelift and if there was any part of this kit I'd ask for them to improve, it would be the book. This is well within the costs of the increase in revenue they get for the kit. They shouldn't rely on recommendations to go to the forums. They don't pay for them and to do so shows a lack of support we're paying for. Part of this frustration shows in the number of pictures I've posted on this site. They should set up a builders page and just load pictures and technical advice for each of their kits. There's a thousand issues they know deserve it and are common for each of us.

Sure, the GTM may be cheap when speaking of Ferraris and Lambos but last time I checked 25K could buy some pretty high quality stuff. When speaking GTM, your paying 25K for a concept, an easel and some paint....maybe the dream. All aside, Factory Five should make the changes and adjustments to both the kit and the manual that by now, could have and should have been done. The only thing that will make up for this is the dream and the time invested in overcoming a new headache at every turn........of the manual pages that is.

November 23, 2015

I spent the latter two weeks this month contemplating and then modifying the sheet metal area under the front end. This should add considerable strentgh but also improve aerodynamics and cooling. The below pictures show the end result of about a week of prototyping and then forming various pieces that now make up a removable front end belly panel that conforms to the splitter. I used aircraft hardware and formed the pieces with .063 and .080 6061-T6 aluminum. Check out the "Nose Sheet metal" page for step by step buildup. BTW...I inadvertantly deleted the photos of the very beginning which consisted of making the templates for the .063 sheet metal 3-piece panel but you can still see the end result. All templates for the individual pieces were made from cardboard and traced onto the sheet metal.

March 7, 2016,

While trial fitting the interior I noticed the realestate was somewhat crowded for the traction control, switches and some of the other stuff. I figured an overhead console would be worthwhile to move some of the stuff up to the cieling. This removes all switches and leaves only the primary (3) gauge group and the PC flat screen I intend to add later forward of the shifter. The tablet is a Samsung S2 with a housing I fabricated with aluminum channel. I also had to mold the buttons. I ran a yellow stripe across the flat Carbon Fiber after noticing some transition issues between the bond lines of the CF. I say "Flat" because I liked the look of the CF after hitting the gloss epoxy Gelcoat with some 1500 sandpaper. It's supposed to go with the yellow brake calipers and yellow on black stitching I plan to have done later.. Check the "Overhead Console" page link above.

August 2016

It's been a busy summer with gardening, going to the beach and body work. I've been fiberglassing, sanding and filling for months. Lots of very tedious boring work....over and over.....and over again and again with getting the lines correct, getting the roof intake glassed on and filling in around each of the glassed on rear vents below the lights. I'm about to spray the epoxy primer (Metacryl) - tomorrow morning is the plan. The pictures below are before and after the Slick Sand coat. It's very porous put provides a nice high-fill polyester base that helps even out the shades for sanding while providing a nice gelcoat to finish sand. Yes, the entire body had to be sanded again from about 100 up to 500. I ended up going over the body again after the slick sand with a fine grade filler for making minor corrections and filling in the pits. This is alot of work! Not as much fun as bolting things together. Gotta be patient and walk away now and then. It goes on and on. The front end is the next piece....then the hatch and doors.

I plan to shoot the epoxy and then place the body back on the car. I'll doublecheck the front and doors and then determine any last minute corrections and paint the inside black or coat with a bedliner. There are lots of little things to check. Painting the body off the car may present a risk of scratching so I may do everything except the final color off the car. Then I'll mount it. I'll shoot the doors and hood off the car - to include final color and clearcoat. I built a paint booth today and plan to post pictures later.

I've added a few pictures to the "Aluminum foort Box Panel" page

September 2016

Still working on the paint prep prior to beginning the final fitting and assembly. Months of sanding and my fingers are wearing out:). Honestly, there are so many lines and curves to blend. I use just about every imagineable sanding block. I did glass in the hood vents and blended with the surrounding surface. That was quite a job but worth the pain. The other option would have been to bond them down in the cutouts. The hard part is sanding the transition and radiuses at each vent opening. They begin at the surface and flow downward - 4 x for each and that means a total of 16 transitions to worry about keeping radiuses flowing correctly and transitioning to the surrounding skin. I'm currently done with the nose (except for final paint) and working the doors now. All of this will be mounted one final time prior to removing and beginning the sequence of final assembly. Looks cool light color but I don't think I'll go that direction. We'll see.

1/31/2017 Working to get this done by late Spring. I spent some time looking at the option of painting the body off the car but don't want to chance the issues that come with it. Main thing is concern for damaging the paint, door final fit issues, paint consistency of the front end, doors and hatch and some other things. As a result I've final sanded to 400 and mounted the body after wrapping the roll bar and doing the headliner. Here's some snapshots. Detailed pictures are in the appropriate places you can find in the above pages. I added the E-Brake video showing the replacement for the failing Corvette E-Brake issue.

3/17/17 Spent the last two months closing out the wheel wells and beginning pre-paint work. I chose Smokey Granite Mica (Lexus) for the color and may do a Viper yellow stripe. I bought the paint (Cromax) and all paint, sealer, clearcoat and the 1/2 pint of yellow ran me $1600. As I began going around the car I decided to doublecheck door fitment one last time. As I took a closer look at the door panels I realized I needed to do a little more in terms of mounting the panels before paint. This turned into a total project to include full carbon fiber door panels and hand built arm rests which ultimately required vacuum bagging. Pictures are worth more than words but I will say it took me a bit off course. What started everything was the Corvette mirror and door controller that needed to be mounted. That required the custom arm rest which meant I had to strip the entire door panel material off and remove the glue from the ABS. (Not fun but a 40 Grit disc on an orbital basically vibrated the glue off). I welded ABS left over from the wheel wells to do the arm rest and then covered with yellow stitch Carbon Fiber. The panels have three layers. I have the wheel well work photos in the "Front Fender Wells" page and the door panels and arm rests in the "Interior" page. The door handle was relocated and molded into the stock door panel. I used the older panels that had the separation issue with the material. I still have the improved set - untouched.

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