BODY AND DOORS
THE PITA OF THE GTM
THE VIDEO IS A QUICK WALK
THROUGH SOME OF THE AREAS ON THE DOOR AND THINGS YOU CAN DO TO GET
THE WINDOWS DOWN TO A MORE ACCEPTABLE DEPTH IN THE DOOR. THE
PICTURES BELOW SHOW MORE DETAIL OF SOME OF THE SAME AREAS
DISCUSSED.
DOOR - WINDOW INSTALL
CHECK THE PAGE FEATURING WINDOW DETAILS UNDER THE BODY AND DOORS
PAGE
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AFTER SANDBLASTING, WELDS ARE SEALED WITH STRUCTURAL
ADHESIVE. THIS IS NOT A MUST BUT THERE WERE SOME AREAS WITH
SMALL PIN HOLES AND I DIDN'T LIKE IT BECAUSE DOORS ARE AREAS YOU
CANT SEE AND IF MOISTURE GETS IN THERE, CORROSION CAN GO A LONG WAY
BEFORE THE NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN THE AREA.
NOTE THAT THE LATCH OPENING STARTED SMALL BUT TRIAL AND ERROR
RESULTED IN A PRETTY GOOD SIZE CUTOUT. I RECOMMEND YOU
PROVIDE PLENTY OF ROOM WITH YOUR CUTOUT AND THEN JUST REGLASS THE
AREA AFTER YOU KNOW WHERE THE LATCH WILL BE PERMANENTLY.
NOT THAT YOU NEED TO BUT THE FIRST THING I NOTICED WAS THAT THE
SLOTTED HOLES SAT TO HIGH CAUSING A PRELOAD ON THE FRAME.
BEFORE ACTUALLY WELDING THE END OF THE FRAME, I ADDED AN 'EAR' TO
THE BRACKET LOWER EDGE AND SIMPLY REDRILLED THE BRACKET.
PRETTY EASY MOD IF THE HOLES AREN'T WHERE YOU NEED THEM. ILL
JUST LEAVE THE OTHERS IN CASE....AND SO THE END RESULT LOOKS
SOMEWHAT THE SAME ON THE OTHER SIDE. DONT REALLY CARE BUT I
DON'T WANT DRASTICALLY DIFFERENT CONFIGURATIONS FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT.
NOTE MEASUREMENTS ARE DIFFERENT THAN WHAT FACTORY FIVE
SAYS. THEIR PICTURES ARE TERRIBLE AND THEY DON'T SPECIFY THE
"EDGE" OF THE DOOR VERY WELL.
SAME REFERENCE IDEA AND ISSUES UP FRONT
NOTE WINDOW PROTRUSION AFTER ADJUSTMENTS TO ALL THE LITTLE
AREAS. WITH A SEAL IN PLACE THE WINDOW WILL ALMOST BE HIDDEN
FROM VIEW.
IM CERTAIN ALL DOORS WILL CONTACT THE TOP OF THE MOTOR.
THIS SHOWS WHAT THE MODIFICATION TO THE MOTOR HOUSING WILL DO FOR
YOU
ENSURE YOUR WINDOW DOESN'T HIT THE BOLT AND NOT AT THE FWD
HINGE. THIS IS REALLY A MATTER OF HAVING THE WINDOW SLID BACK IN
THE TRACK. NOT MORE.
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NOTE THAT WITH THE WINDOW TRACKS IN AND WINDOW MOUNTED AND
TESTED, THE FRAME IS SLOTTED AND BENT INTO POSITION. METAL
MUST BE FABRICATED TO BRIDGE THE FRAME TO THE HINGE WELDMENT AND
THEN TACK WELDED IN PLACE. REMEMBER, THE DOOR HAD BEEN FITTED
WITHOUT THE WINDOW SO THE FWD AND AFT HINGE AND LATCH HAD ALREADY
BEEN LOCATED. BY TRACING THE BOLTS, WASHERS AND TRANSITIONS OF
EACH, YOU CAN BOLT THESE BACK INTO POSITION EVEN WHEN THE FRAME IS
IN PIECES. THEN YOU SIMPLY RE-WELD THE FRAME MEMBER AND THE
SLOT YOU CUT TO CHANGE THE ANGLES. THESE SLOTS AND THE ANGLE
DIFFERENCES ARE WHAT ALLOW CLEARANCE OF THE TRACKS AND GET THE
FRAME POSITION TO NOT PRE-LOAD THE FIBERGLASS AT THE FRONT AND
BACK. NOTE THE PROXIMITY OF THE WINDOW CLAMP BOLT HEAD!!!
MOTOR NOW UP AGAINST THE FRAME AS CLOSE AS I COULD GET
IT.
THIS CUTOUT AND THE PROTRUSION REMAINS CONSISTENT AND AT THE
SAME PLAIN (NO GREATER) THAN THAT AHEAD OF IT FOR THE WINDOW TRACK.
THIS MEANS YOU HAVE ROOM AND IT WILL NOT HIT THE LOWER DOOR FRAME
MEMBER AND FIBERGLASS ON THE CHASSIS. THIS BUYS ABOUT 1-1/2-2" OF
TRAVEL. TO DO THIS, YOU MUST USE 1/4-3/8 SPACERS AT THE UPPER TRACK
MOUNT POINT TO ESSENTIALLY GET THE TRACK CONTOUR PARRALLEL (MORE
ANYWAY) TO THE DOOR SKIN.
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NOTE THAT AFTER THE CUTOUT IS MADE IN THE HOUSING, THE ENDS OF
THE COVER ARE BENT OVER AND THEN SEALED.
POPSICLE STICK SHOWS AREA REMOVED BUT ONLY AT THE DEPTH OF THE
'TUB' IN THE BODY. DON'T CUT THE ENTIRE CORNER OFF.
MAJOR REWORK IS NECESSARY. CUT THE WELDMENT FROM THE END
OF THE SQUARE TUBES. BE AS CAREFUL AS POSSIBLE AND SACRIFICE THE
WELDMENT MORE THAN THE TUBES. IN OTHER WORDS, IF YOU NICK
SOMETHING, NICK THE THICK WELDMENT. THIS WILL LESSEN THE
EXTENT TO WHICH THE REPAIR AND WELDING IS NEEDED WHEN YOU
REASSEMBLE LATER. A SAWZALL WORKS GREAT.
NOTE THE EXTENT TO WHICH THIS CUT IS MADE. ITS POSSIBLE TO
CAPTURE THIS AREA IN THE TOTAL RECESS THAT INCLUDES THE LOWER
TRACK. LATER, THIS WILL BE GLASSED AND SIMPLY CHANGE THE
OVERALL DIMENSION (BUT NOT DEPTH) OF THE AREA THAT RIDES AGAINST
THE LOWER DOOR FRAME AND GLASS ON THE CAR.
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THE INFAMOUS GLASS AND SKIN CONTACT AREA. SPACERS ON THE
UPPER WINDOW TRACKS CHANGE THE PLAIN THE WINDOW TRAVELS IN AND
LESSENS THE CONTACT. ALSO, USING STUDS INSTEAD OF THE BOLTS
IN THE WINDOW CLAMPS AT THE AFT EDGE, PREVENT CONTACT.
STUDS CAN BE MADE FROM MANY MATERIALS INCLUDING THESE "SLOAN"
URINAL MOUNT STUDS THAT ARE NICELY CADMIUM PLATED.
FORMING THE AFT FRAME. ACTUALLY, USING A FORMING BLOCK AND
TAPING THE TRACK ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOW, YOU CAN "SHRINK" THE
GRANULAR STRUCTURE WITHOUT CUTTING OR HEATING. THE TRACKS DO
NOT NEED TO BE "TORCHED" TO DO THIS. EVEN IF HOT, THE SAME
KINKS WOULD OCCUR THAT YOU EXPERIENCE UNDER A MORE EXTREME FORMING
PROCESS. ONLY A MALLET, BUCKING BARS AND PATIENCE ARE NEEDED
TO HAND FORM OR COLD WORK THE TRACK ENOUGH TO GET IT IN THE RIGHT
PLAIN.
NOTE THE SILVER/WHITEISH MARKS ON THE DOOR SKIN. THOSE ARE
SCRAPES FROM THE WINDOW CLAMP MOUNT BOLT HEAD.
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VERY IMPORTAND SPACERS MADE OF NYLON AT THE UPPER TRACK MOUNT
POINTS. TRY THEM. THEY HELP POSITION EVERYTHING IN THE
RIGHT PLAIN AND GET THE WINDOW TO COME UP THROUGH THE OPENINGS AND
ALONG THE AFT VERTICAL CHANNEL ON THE DOOR FIBERGLASS.
NOTE THAT THE ABOVE PICTURES SHOW LIGHT BEING USED WITH A MIRROR
TO LOCATE THE HOLES THAT NEED TO BE DRILLED FOR THE TRACKS.
USE THE LIGHT AND A MIRROR TO PROJECT LIGHT THROUGH THE GLASS AND
THEN MARK IT. YOU MADE NEED TO TURN THE LIGHTS IN THE GARAGE
DOWN AND MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERIES ARE CHARGED.
THE BOLT RUBBING THE SKIN
COLD WORKING THE TAB ON THE FWD TRACK. MINOR ADJUSTMENTS
USING FLANGING PLIARS.
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MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR DOOR HANDLE IS. OTHER THAN THIS
PROTRUSION ON THE DOOR PANEL, THINGS BEHIND THE DOOR PANEL HAVE
PRETTY GOOD CLARANCE FOR FRAME ADJUSTMENTS. JUST DONT MOUNT THE
MOTOR OR DOOR POPPERS HERE.
A NICE WAY TO PROP THE DOOR UP WHILE WORKING.
USING THE WINDOW MOTOR MOUNTING BOLTS, MOUNT THE MOTOR TO THE
FRAME.....OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. THIS IS WHAT FACTORY FIVE
IS TELLING YOU TO DO....ITS THE ONLY WAY UNLESS YOU HAVE SEVERELY
COURSE THREADED HARDWARE. HONESTLY I THINK STEEL HOSE CLAMPS
ARE ADEQUATE OR CAN AT LEAST BE USED IF DESIRED. THE MOTOR
STAYS PRETTY STATIONARY WHEN IN USE. JUST A LITTLE TORQUE
MOVEMENT BUT THE LOAD IS INTERNAL ON THE SPOOL.
ADDED MATERIAL ON THE AFT BRACKET.
THE POCKET FOR THE HOOD LATCH
HAD TO BE CUT TO ALLOW PULLING IT IN SLIGHTLY TO MATCH THE HOOD AND
THE ANGLE/CONTOUR OF THE EFT SIDE IN THE SAME
AREA.
NOTICE THE ADDED GLASS AFT OF THE ORIGINAL FLANGE AT THE
BACK RIGHT SIDE OF THE HOOD
